Fiberglass is a great material when it's installed properly. It's a waste of money when it's not. We treat every batt like it matters, because in real-world performance, the install is 80% of the result.
The trick is knowing when, and installing it the way the engineering actually requires, not the way most contractors slap it in.
You won't recover spray foam's premium. Fiberglass is the smarter spend.
Rather do the job once than skip it altogether. Fiberglass done right beats nothing.
No moisture, vapor, or air-quality issue that specifically requires closed-cell foam.
Topping up a well-detailed existing attic that's just thermally short.
Different forms for different applications. We install both, and we'll spec the right one for your home.
Best for: New construction with open framing, wall cavities, basement rim joists, garage ceilings.
Installation matters: Properly cut around wiring and pipes, no compression, no gaps at top/bottom plates. The difference between a Grade I and Grade III install is enormous.
Best for: Existing attics, retrofits, irregular spaces, topping up under-insulated assemblies.
Installation matters: Even density, proper baffle installation at eaves, accurate depth markers throughout. We measure.
Fiberglass works by trapping still air in millions of tiny pockets. The instant air moves through the material, performance collapses. That's why air-sealing detailing, caulking and foam-sealing every penetration before the fiberglass goes in, is the single highest-leverage step on every fiberglass install. It's also the step that gets skipped on 90% of the homes we walk into for retrofit audits.
We don't skip it. Every fiberglass project includes a documented air-sealing pass before any insulation goes in.
More on Air SealingHow much real-world performance fiberglass loses when the air-seal step is skipped.
What every Complete Insulation fiberglass project looks like, in the order we do it.
Walk the attic, document existing R-value, find penetrations, identify duct issues.
Caulk and foam every top plate, can light, plumbing stack, electrical penetration.
Batts cut to fit. Blown to documented depth. Eave baffles installed for ventilation.
Depth markers throughout. Photos. Walk-through with you before we leave.
Modern fiberglass is bound with formaldehyde-free binders and is not classified as a respiratory hazard once installed. During install we wear PPE and contain the work area; you don't need to be home.
It can last the life of the home if it stays dry and undisturbed. Settling and moisture damage are the two failure modes, both preventable with proper detailing.
Usually yes, if the existing material is dry, clean, and intact. We'll inspect first and document what's underneath.
That's what the energy audit answers. We diagnose your home, then recommend the product that actually fits the situation, not the one with the highest margin for us.
If we don't think fiberglass is right for your home, we'll tell you that, too.
